Couscous Tfaya – Morocco’s Sweet & Savory Caramelized Onion Chicken

A Dish of Celebration & Heritage

Couscous Tfaya is one of Morocco’s most beloved and festive dishes, a symphony of textures and flavors that beautifully balances sweet and savory. Tender, spiced chicken is served over a bed of light, fluffy couscous, crowned with tfaya — a luxurious, slow-caramelized onion and raisin mixture perfumed with cinnamon, honey, saffron, and orange blossom water. This is not everyday fare; it is a dish of hospitality and honor, traditionally prepared for weddings, Eid celebrations, and important family gatherings.

Cultural Note: The Heart of the Dish

The word tfaya refers specifically to the caramelized onion-raisin topping, which is the soul of the dish. Its deep, sweet richness is a hallmark of Moroccan “royal cuisine.” True Moroccan couscous is not boiled; it is steamed in a couscoussier — a two-tiered pot where the couscous grains gently cook over the simmering stew below, absorbing its aromatic vapors. This method creates the ethereal, non-sticky texture that defines an authentic couscous presentation.

Ingredients (serves 6–8)

For the Chicken & Broth:

1.5 – 2 kg (3–4 lb) chicken, cut into 8 pieces (or a whole chicken, jointed)
2 large onions, finely sliced
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp saffron threads, soaked in 2 tbsp warm water
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ras el hanout (optional, but adds depth)
1.5 L (6 cups) chicken stock or water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 tbsp olive oil

For the Tfaya (Onion-Raisin Topping):

6–8 large yellow onions, very thinly sliced (approx. 2 kg / 4.5 lb)
150–200 g (1–1.5 cups) golden raisins
3–4 tbsp honey
1–2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp orange blossom water (ma zhar, optional but traditional)
Reserved saffron water (from chicken ingredients)

For the Couscous:

600–800 g (5–7 cups) medium-grain couscous
2 tbsp olive oil or butter
1 tsp salt
600–800 ml (2.5–3.5 cups) hot water or reserved chicken broth

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prepare the Chicken & Broth:

In a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Pat the chicken pieces dry and brown them well on all sides. Remove and set aside.
In the same pot, add the sliced onions and garlic. Cook for 5-7 minutes until softened.
Add the ginger, turmeric, cinnamon, and ras el hanout. Stir for one minute until fragrant.
Return the chicken to the pot. Pour in the chicken stock and add the soaked saffron along with its water. Season generously with salt and pepper.
Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer gently for 1 to 1½ hours, until the chicken is fall-off-the-bone tender.

2. Make the Tfaya (This is Key!):

While the chicken simmers, melt the butter in a very large, wide pan or skillet over low heat.
Add all the thinly sliced onions. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, for 45 to 60 minutes. They must soften, melt, and turn a deep, golden brown without burning. Patience is essential.
Once the onions are fully caramelized, add the raisins, honey, cinnamon, and the remaining saffron water. Stir well to combine.
Continue to cook on low for another 15–20 minutes until the mixture becomes sticky, glossy, and jam-like. Stir in the orange blossom water at the very end. Keep warm.

3. Prepare the Couscous (Modern Quick Method):

Place the couscous in a large, shallow bowl. Stir in the oil or butter and salt.
Gradually pour the hot water or hot broth over the couscous, just enough to cover it by about 1 cm (½ inch). Immediately cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap or a lid.
Let it stand for 10 minutes. The couscous will absorb all the liquid.
Uncover and fluff vigorously with a fork to separate all the grains.

4. To Serve – The Grand Presentation:

Mound the fluffy couscous on a large, warm serving platter.
Arrange the tender chicken pieces over and around the couscous.
Generously spoon the glorious tfaya mixture over the top, creating a stunning golden crown.
Ladle some of the reserved cooking broth into a bowl to serve on the side for guests to moisten their couscous as desired.

Signature Chef’s Tips

Low and Slow Wins the Race: The magic of tfaya lies in the onions. Rushing them over high heat will burn the sugars and create bitterness. True caramelization is a gentle, slow process.
Balance the Sweetness: Tfaya should be sweet, but not cloying. Start with 3 tbsp of honey, then taste and adjust after the raisins have plumped. The savory chicken and broth provide the perfect counterbalance.
The Traditional Steam: For the ultimate couscous texture, use a couscoussier. Steam the couscous over the simmering chicken broth for about 30 minutes, raking and moistening it 2-3 times during cooking.
Make it Vegetarian: Omit the chicken. Use vegetable stock and add hearty vegetables like carrots, turnips, and chickpeas to the stew.

Tfaya & Couscous Grandeur

These photos show the classic Moroccan presentation:

[Image 1 Description: A close-up of the finished dish, showing the fluffy yellow couscous, a piece of golden-brown chicken, and a generous heap of glistening, caramelized tfaya with plump raisins.]
Alt text: A close-up of Moroccan Couscous Tfaya, featuring fluffy steamed couscous, tender spiced chicken, and a rich topping of caramelized onions and golden raisins.

[Image 2 Description: The traditional grand presentation on a large, ornate platter. The couscous forms a wide mound, chicken pieces are arranged around the edges, and the tfaya is piled dramatically in the center, garnished with toasted almonds.]
Alt text: Traditional grand presentation of Couscous Tfaya on a large platter, with couscous, chicken, and a central mound of caramelized onion tfaya, ready for a festive meal.

This dish is a labor of love, a gift from the cook to the table. Each bite, with its interplay of sweet, savory, and spice, tells a story of Moroccan warmth, generosity, and culinary artistry.

Taste of Heaven